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Where Can I Buy Zinsser Primer

Zinsser has been addressing mold, and mildew stains and offering primer protection for the home since 1849. Zinsser makes resolving common issues in the home or on commercial projects much more simple and easy as a process. If you are currently working on a project we highly recommend looking at their line of products.

where can i buy zinsser primer


Cover up your stains with Zinsser High Hide! This high-performance, water-based primer will remove any stain on walls, ceilings, doors, window frames and shutters caused by water damage, fire damage, or smoke damage.

This clear shield works on hard to stick surfaces like glossy paint, ceramic tile, glass, and vinyl wallcovering. Prime bare metal surfaces with Zinsser bulls eye 1-2-3 primer. This primer allows you to add tint so that you can match the background color of the wall or to masque seams and gaps.

Zinsser also offers items for niche projects, such as odor killing primer, graffiti barrier paint, swimming pool paint, water-repellant sealer, and metal primer. Metal primers can be placed directly on metal to protect against rust development.

We remain true to the traditions of innovation and quality established by our founder, William Zinsser: to develop problem-solving products that people can depend on. By sticking to these principles we have made Zinsser the primer of choice for the professional painter.

Zinsser BIN is a white-pigmented, shellac-based primer that seals surfaces to keep sap and tannin from bleeding into paint when painting wood. BIN is what I use the most for priming kitchen cabinets and tough stains on drywall. This product can also be used for minor spot priming outside (wood knots, sap stains, nail rust, etc.).

I use BIN shellac primer and Cover Stain (oil primer) a lot in different situations. When applying the material with an airless sprayer, I prefer BIN for priming cabinets. The material is very thin and levels out over wood better than any other primer I have used.

I never brush and roll BIN because it's horribly messy. For that reason, I only use it with my sprayer, or the spray can. BIN is very milky and spatters all over the place if a brush or roller is used to apply it. Oil primer is messy too, but it's the better option for brushwork.

Shellac-based primer dries harder, making it a little more difficult to sand than oil primer. Both sand into a white powder, but Cover Stain sands a little easier in my experience. Shellac reaches full hardness three days after application.

Shellac cleans up with denatured alcohol or ammonia. I find ammonia to work the best for clean up, especially for my sprayer. Ammonia is cheaper too. The disadvantage is the horrible vapor. Oil primer cleans up with mineral spirits, which smells bad too.

The shellac from Sherwin Williams dries slower and smells worse in my experience. The consistency of the material is the same with both, but the coverage with the Sherwin Williams primer isn't as good. It also doesn't sand as easily as BIN.

I use Zinsser BIN primer on cabinets and for spot priming, and I do recommend the primer for spraying. The aerosol cans come in handy too when you need to do quick spot priming before painting. Brushing this stuff is extremely messy because it's so watery. I only spray this product.

The primer lays out exceptionally well when sprayed and won't form runs easily because it dries so fast. I can sand it and apply a second coat within one hour. It doesn't sand as easily as some of the oil-based primer I've used, but the durability and coverage is very good. I've never had a problem with bleed-through using this product. One downside is the strong smell before it dries, but (thankfully, unlike an oil-based primer) the smell doesn't linger.

Answer: The primer should have been sanded too, but the problem here is the ProMar 200 paint. It's not a durable product for paneling. It dries too soft. Emerald urethane enamel in the semi-gloss finish would have been a much more durable product for your paneling. It dries hard. The ProMar paint might harden a little over the next couple weeks, but your best bet is probably going to be removing the paint and applying a durable product like the one I mentioned.

Question: I need to use the primer to prime cabinets that are stained. Do I need to sand the cabinets enough to completely remove the stain or do I even need to sand at all if using this primer? Also I would really prefer to use a brush and roller, does this mean I shouldn't use the BIN or SW?

Answer: The cabinets should be cleaned and sanded to remove the glossy clear coat. This allows the primer to bond stronger to the surface. Use an electric sander with 150-grit sandpaper. You can brush and roll BIN, but it's messy to work with because it's as thin as water. It sprinkles everywhere. You have to be careful to cover everything around and beneath the cabinets, you're priming.

Answer: I would be hesitant to use BIN as a floor primer. While the primer is very durable on vertical surfaces, I'm really not sure how well it would hold up on a floor, long term, because I've only used this product on cabinets and drywall. I would explore primer meant for flooring, or you could contact Zinseer customer service and ask them if BIN can be used on floors.

Answer: If you mean priming and painting stairway walls or the wood railings/spindles in the stairway, the smell of the primer would be strong in an enclosed area like that without using a fan to help circulate the air. Opening windows with a couple of box fans set up will remove the fumes really fast though. The smell of BIN doesn't linger as oil primer does. Use low VOC paint to reduce odor.

Answer: The wallpaper needs to be primed first before you can paint it. Use oil primer, not latex. Whenever I prime wallpaper, I always use Cover Stain oil primer. BIN would probably be fine too, but Cover Stain's always worked great for me without any problems. You can topcoat the primer with any latex paint.

Answer: The fish eye likely happened because there was a contaminant on the surface that you primed with Cover Stain. You didn't mention if you cleaned the surface or not. You can try cleaning the surface with a surface prep cleaner, or denatured alcohol, then apply another coat of your primer. Make sure you're following the air temperature and RH specs for the primer too. Most fisheye is caused by surface contaminants.

Answer: You don't have to thin BIN. It's already very thin and sprays really nice with an airless sprayer and a fine finish tip, or an HVLP sprayer. Yes, you can spray BIN with the Homeright sprayer, but I've tried it and it doesn't produce a nice smooth finish. I don't recommend using that sprayer for spraying cabinets, or any projects that call for a fine finish. Out of curiosity, I bought a Homeright sprayer, in hopes of using it only for spraying BIN, but on my sample door, the primer would just splatter onto the surface when sprayed and not form a nice finish. I'll be writing a review on it.

Answer: You can, but the primer serves only as a stain blocker and a bond coat for paint. It's meant to be painted. BIN primer might also react badly over time from direct water exposure. With paint on top, it's fine, but without primer, if drawers underneath the sink area get splashed a lot by water it might start to chip, so you'd want to at least topcoat the primer with a clear protective coat if you're not going to paint it.

Answer: Yes, BIN primer's a good choice for laminate cabinets, or oil-based primer. The process is the same for most other cabinets I've painted (clean, sand, prime, paint).

Answer: Yes, but the paint will form a stronger bond scuff sanding the primer before painting. If you're able to sand the ceiling without damaging the texture, scuff sand it with a drywall sanding sponge. If you don't sand the primer, the paint's not going to peel off the ceiling.

Answer: Sherwin Williams Loxon floor sealer might be a good choice for your concrete floor, but I have no personal experience with that product. For blocking odor on walls, Zinsser BIN will do the trick or Sherwin Williams white pigmented shellac. Both products are the same. This primer smells horrible, but the smell goes away in a couple of hours.

Answer: It depends what you're priming. I have only used the shellac BIN, so I can't comment on the water-based version, but I'd be hesitant to rely on it to cover tough stains. Shellac is best for that, but for minor stains, or as a primer coat for a major color change, it might be fine. For tough stains and sealing raw wood, the shellac version, or oil-based primer, is your best bet.

Answer: Both products work great for blocking nicotine stains. There are pros and cons of both. BIN is over $20 more per gallon, although in some cases you can get a cheaper price if you buy a 5 gallon container instead of singles. BIN dries really fast with the windows open. You can paint over the primer in 45 min to 1 hour. It sprays like a dream. Both products splatter and sprinkle like crazy when brushing and rolling, especially BIN because it's as thin as milk. You need eye protection if you're rolling either onto a ceiling. I highly recommend using an airless sprayer over rolling. Cover Stain dries a little slower. It sands easier. The smell lingers. Clean up is more toxic, requiring the use of paint thinner. With BIN, all you need is a cheap bottle of ammonia and warm water. Both products smell horrible. You absolutely must wear a respirator and open all of the windows to ventilate the fumes. If it were me, I'd use BIN, but not in high moisture areas like a bathroom. Everywhere else it's fine. You can paint over it with any latex paint. 041b061a72


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